Sun and Moon

There’s something magical about stepping back into a place that feels like a piece of living history. After a 14-hour journey from Manila, I found myself once again in Tattoo Village, Tinglayan, Kalinga—the home of the legendary Apo Whang-Od, the oldest and most celebrated mambabatok (traditional tattoo artist) of the Philippines.

This wasn’t my first visit, but every trip here feels like the first. The village, with its breathtaking mountain views, crisp air, and warm community, radiates a timeless spirit. It’s a place where tradition is not just preserved but lived, where every tattoo is more than art—it’s a story, a connection, a symbol of life itself.

A New Chapter on My Skin

This time, I chose the Sun and Moon design, a pattern rich with meaning. For the people of Kalinga, it symbolizes "Long Life." It’s a profound message, one that resonates deeply with me as I reflect on my journey—not just to Tinglayan but through life itself.

The process, as always, was meditative. With each tap of the thorn on my skin, I felt more grounded, more connected to the wisdom passed down through generations. It’s not just about the ink—it’s about the intention, the respect for the craft, and the cultural heritage it represents.

Apo Whang-Od’s Legacy

Apo Whang-Od, though now in her 100s, continues to inspire with her dedication to the art. She trains younger generations, ensuring the tradition of batok lives on. Watching her work is like witnessing a dance—a seamless flow of skill and reverence for her craft.

Every visitor she tattoos carries a piece of this legacy. For many, it’s a spiritual experience. For me, it’s a reminder of the enduring power of tradition and the stories we choose to carry with us.

The Journey That Matters

Getting to Tinglayan is no easy feat. The long drive, the rugged roads, and the steep trek to the village demand patience and determination. But as the saying goes, the journey is as important as the destination. Each mile traveled is a testament to how far one is willing to go for an experience that enriches the soul.

When I arrived, the familiar sights and faces welcomed me back like an old friend. The simplicity of village life has a way of grounding you, reminding you of what truly matters.

Carrying Tradition Forward

The Sun and Moon now etched on my skin are more than a design; they’re a living connection to the Kalinga people, to their wisdom and way of life. It’s a piece of their world I carry with me, a reminder to live fully, to honor the past, and to embrace the beauty of our shared human journey.